Tughlaqabad Fort: The Cursed Citadel of Delhi

Introduction

Standing in silent ruins on the southern outskirts of Delhi, Tughlaqabad Fort looms as an awe-inspiring monument of ambition, power, and mystery. Built in the 14th century by Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq, the founder of the Tughlaq dynasty, this massive stone fortress once symbolized military strength and royal authority. Today, it evokes awe and melancholy in equal measure—a testament to Delhi’s layered history and the impermanence of power.

Unlike the ornate elegance of Mughal architecture, Tughlaqabad Fort exudes a stark, rugged strength. Its high granite walls, bastions, and watchtowers reflect a vision of invincibility. Yet, it is also a place shrouded in legend, especially the story of a curse by the Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya that allegedly doomed the fort to abandonment.

This blog explores Tughlaqabad Fort in all its dimensions—its historical origins, architectural features, legends, decline, and current status—unfolding the grandeur and tragedy of one of Delhi’s most fascinating monuments.

Historical Background

The Rise of the Tughlaq Dynasty

After the Khilji dynasty came the Tughlaqs—an ambitious, militaristic dynasty that sought to consolidate and expand the Delhi Sultanate. The founder, Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq, rose from humble origins as a governor under Alauddin Khilji to establish his own dynasty around 1320 CE.

Unlike his predecessors, Ghiyas-ud-din emphasized administration, law, and military discipline. One of his earliest initiatives as Sultan was to build a fortified capital, one that could protect the empire from Mongol invasions and serve as a stronghold for his rule.

The Founding of Tughlaqabad

In 1321 CE, Ghiyas-ud-din began the construction of Tughlaqabad Fort, envisioning it as a grand citadel that would rival any in the world. The fort was completed rapidly—within four to five years—using the labor of thousands of workers.

However, the fort’s destiny would be marred by conflict and legend, never fully serving as the glorious capital it was intended to be.

The Legend of the Curse

Conflict with Nizamuddin Auliya

According to legend, while construction of the fort was underway, Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din ordered all laborers in and around Delhi to work exclusively on the fort. At the same time, the revered Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya was building a baoli (stepwell) for the people.

When the saint’s work was disrupted due to the Sultan’s labor decree, he is said to have cursed the Sultan with the famous words:

“Ya rahe ujjar, ya base gujjar”
(May it remain uninhabited, or be occupied by nomads.)

Whether coincidental or divine, the fort was soon abandoned, and the area did indeed become sparsely populated, later inhabited mainly by the Gujjar community.

Ghiyas-ud-din’s Mysterious Death

Adding to the mystery, Ghiyas-ud-din died in 1325 under suspicious circumstances while returning from a military expedition in Bengal. A wooden pavilion collapsed on him, and many believe it was orchestrated by his son and successor, Muhammad bin Tughlaq, who allegedly resented his father’s authority.

Some accounts even claim that the saint had predicted the Sultan’s death upon his return to Delhi, deepening the myth surrounding the curse.

Architectural Overview

Fort Layout and Structure

Tughlaqabad Fort is spread over 6.5 kilometers, making it one of the largest forts in India. Built primarily from quartzite stone, it sits on the Delhi ridge, part of the Aravalli Hills, enhancing its defensive positioning.

Key architectural features include:

Massive Defensive Walls
- Walls are 10 to 15 meters high and up to 5 meters thick.
- They are sloped outwards, a design unique in Delhi, and strategically effective against invaders.
Bastions and Watchtowers
- There are over 50 semi-circular bastions with large parapets for archers.
- These allowed defenders to observe and repel attacks from a distance.
City Planning Inside the Fort
- The interior included palaces, halls, residences, and administrative buildings, now mostly in ruins.
- The remains of granaries, wells, and stepwells suggest a self-sustaining urban layout.
Three Main Gates
- The fort had three monumental gates, now partially destroyed, which served as controlled entry points.
Secret Tunnels
- Local lore speaks of underground tunnels and escape routes, though many remain unexplored or inaccessible.

The Mausoleum of Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq

Located Outside the Main Fort

Ghiyas-ud-din’s tomb is separate from the main fort, situated in a causeway-connected enclosure surrounded by a moat. The bridge-like structure connecting it to the main fort is still intact.

Architectural Features

The tomb is made of red sandstone and white marble, creating a striking contrast.
It is enclosed in a hexagonal compound with high walls.
The main chamber houses three graves—believed to be those of Ghiyas-ud-din, his wife, and his son.
The design marks a transition from Hindu to Indo-Islamic styles, influencing later tombs like that of Humayun.

This tomb is one of the best-preserved structures of the Tughlaq period and is often praised for its austere dignity and architectural symmetry.

Strategic Importance and Decline

A Fort Never Fully Realized

Despite its massive scale and ambitious vision, Tughlaqabad was inhabited for only a brief period. After the sudden death of Ghiyas-ud-din and the chaotic reign of Muhammad bin Tughlaq, the fort fell into disuse.

Its location, while defensively advantageous, was remote and difficult to supply, making it impractical for a growing urban population.

Subsequent Use and Abandonment

Over the centuries, the fort was periodically used by other rulers but never became a lasting seat of power. It gradually fell into ruins due to neglect, natural decay, and quarrying of stone by local communities.

By the time of the British Raj, it was considered an archaeological curiosity rather than a functional monument.

Modern Relevance and Tourism

A Hidden Historical Gem

Today, Tughlaqabad Fort is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Although not as visited as other Delhi landmarks, it attracts:

Historians and archaeologists interested in pre-Mughal architecture.
Photographers and film crews drawn to its raw, dramatic setting.
Heritage walkers and school groups, often exploring it along with nearby sites like Adilabad Fort and the tomb of Nizamuddin Auliya.

Nearby Attractions

Asola Wildlife Sanctuary – for nature lovers.
Surajkund – the site of an annual handicrafts fair.
Qutub Minar – another historical site within a short drive.

Visiting Tughlaqabad Fort

Entry and Timing

Open from sunrise to sunset, every day.
Nominal entry fees for Indian and foreign tourists.
Minimal facilities on-site—carry water and wear comfortable shoes.

Best Time to Visit

October to March, when Delhi’s weather is cooler and ideal for outdoor exploration.
Avoid peak summer (May–June) as the site has little shade.

Photography and Exploration Tips

Early mornings offer the best light and fewer crowds.
Wear sturdy footwear for climbing the uneven terrain and stairs.
Keep an eye out for monitor lizards, peacocks, and other wildlife that roam the ruins.

Tughlaqabad in Literature and Popular Culture

Although not as celebrated in popular fiction as other forts, Tughlaqabad has been the subject of:

Historical research papers exploring early Sultanate architecture.
Travel documentaries on lesser-known Delhi monuments.
The fort features symbolically in Girish Karnad’s play “Tughlaq”, which examines the psychological complexity of Muhammad bin Tughlaq.

Its stark grandeur makes it a favorite for writers and poets looking to evoke themes of power, betrayal, and impermanence.

Conservation Challenges

Urban Encroachment

The fort faces threats from unauthorized construction and land encroachment.
Many surrounding villages and colonies have cropped up close to the archaeological zone.

Neglect and Lack of Promotion

Despite its significance, Tughlaqabad lacks basic tourist infrastructure, including signage, audio guides, or visitor centers.

Need for Heritage Awareness

Conservationists call for greater awareness about the Tughlaq period and restoration of not just buildings but public memory.

Conclusion: A Fortress of Forgotten Glory

Tughlaqabad Fort stands as a symbol of ambition and tragedy, a ghost city that narrates the story of a powerful ruler, a divine curse, and a dynasty’s fleeting legacy. It challenges the visitor to imagine what once was—a bustling citadel, alive with the movement of soldiers, scholars, traders, and royals.

As Delhi continues to grow, monuments like Tughlaqabad Fort remind us of the city’s forgotten chapters, whispering through windswept stones and echoing bastions. To walk through the ruins is to connect with a time of grand dreams, political intrigue, and divine mysteries.

It may have never fulfilled Ghiyas-ud-din’s vision, but in its majestic decay, Tughlaqabad Fort continues to inspire, awe, and intrigue.